Peerless Combination Gas-Coal/Wood Range


1. Look your shipment over carefully before you accept it and take it from the freight station.

Our shipments are so packed and crated that not one in a hundred is broken in transit, but-if any parts should be broken, or if it is otherwise in bad order, ask the railroad agent to write what the damage is on the freight bill he gives you.

The Railroad Company's rules require him to do this. Sometimes agents decline, and if your agent does so, have some disinterested party examine the shipment and give you a written statement of its condition.

Send the freight bill or statement to us, and describe the broken parts and we will at once send you new ones, by the quickest means of transportation at no expense to you. The sectional views shown in this circular will enable you to describe the parts wanted.

Do not send us the broken castings unless we request you to do so. When we have the freight bill with damages noted on it, or the statement above referred to, we cart collect the amount of the damages from the Transportation Company.

Without it we cannot make claim for damages. Therefore, we ask you to help us make the railroads pay for negligence and carelessness as well as for the annoyance caused both you and us for something, which is entirely their fault, and not ours.

2. See that your chimney and pipe are alright before you set up your stove and attempt to start a fire.

Before Setting up Your Stove
Don't Fail to Read This!

Perhaps no article that is used in the household is subject to as many difficult requirements and unfavorable conditions as a range, a cook stove or a heating stove. Many persons think that a stove or range should always work successfully regardless of the conditions under which it is set up and operated.

A range or stove has no draft in itself. The chimney alone furnishes the draft that fans the fire and makes it burn.

Put your hand in the stove before it is connected· to the chimney with a stovepipe and you can feel no draft at all, but when properly connected with the chimney the draft can be felt in the stove.

This is a plain, practical demonstration that the chimney and stovepipe create the draft. Yet many persons complain every day to some manufacturer or some dealer that their stove has no draft, that they cannot do anything with it.

Read each paragraph carefully and look to the point covered by that individual paragraph by itself, going over the entire list.

  1. The chimney should always be at least three feet higher than any other part of the house or its surroundings.
  2. If the chimney is not high enough so as to create a good draft, extend it with brick and mortar, tile or a stack made of galvanized iron or sheet iron. The stack should not be less than eight inches in diameter, and must fit perfectly tight where it joins to the top of the chimney.
  3. No trees should hang over the top of the chimney. If there are any trees in the vicinity that are taller than the chimney, the wind when blowing from the direction of such trees, will eddy over the top of them and force the draft back down the chimney causing the stove to smoke. In such cases either extend the chimney, as suggested or place a chimney cap on the top of the chimney, of such pattern as will prevent forcing the air back down the chimney.
  4. A new chimney will never work as well as it will after it has become thoroughly dry. It sometimes takes from two to three weeks to dry out a chimney so that it will do its best work.
  5. In setting up a stove use just as few elbows as possible. The elbows should always be lower than the hole in the chimney.
  6. The chimney should be perfectly clean and free from all obstructions and absolutely tight from bottom to top.
  7. See that the stove stands level, and then fit the pipe to the collar of the stove so no air can be admitted there.
  8. All the points of stovepipe should fit tightly together. Use the same size stovepipe~ and elbows as the pipe collar when possible, preferable 7-in pipe. No air should be admitted at the joints.
  9. Don't push the pipe too far into the chimney; the end of the pipe should be just about flush with the inner wall 0 the chimney. Measure the width of the brick, mark this distance on the end of the pipe and push it in just up to this mark.
  10. Don't let the pipe slip too far into the elbow; if it does, it will close the opening in the elbow and shut off the draft.
  11. See that no ashes are deposited in the chimney opposite where the stovepipe enters it. If ashes are allowed to collect at this point, they will cut off the draft.
  12. The stovepipe and chimney hole should always be the same size as the collar on the stove or range. If it is smaller, it won't work as well.
  13. No two stovepipes should enter the same chimney directly opposite each other; they should be at least 8 or 10 inches apart.
  14. See that there are no other stovepipe holes on either side of the chimney, above or below, that are left open. If there are any, close them up tightly. If a flue stove is used to do this, see that it fits perfectly tight. Nail it if necessary. If air gets in around such flue stops, it will check the draft of the chimney.
  15. Be particular to close all openings around the stovepipe where the pipe enters the chimney, as all the air that enters the chimney should be heated by passing through the fire.
  16. Close tightly the opening through which the chimney is cleaned if there IS one. Sometimes it is located at the bottom of the chimney in another room; then again this opening is in the cellar. Look carefully after this point; this clean-out opening must be tightly closed or trouble will result.
  17. If there is another stove connected with the same chimney, when there is no fire in such stove all the dampers and draft slides must be closed tightly. If the pipe from a furnace enters the same chimney, be sure to turn the damper in the furnace smoke-pipe, and also close the feed door and the ash-pit door of the furnace and the draft slides in them when no fire is burning in it.
  18. n rare occasions the chimney furnishes too much draft and the heat is drawn out of the chimney so rapidly that the iron does not have time to absorb it properly. When such is the case, a damper in the stovepipe partially turned will overcome the difficulty.
  19. Both the stove, the stovepipe, and the chimney must be clean and free from dirt, ashes and soot, and all openings in the pipe and chimney tightly closed.
  20. An open fireplace should be closed by fitting a piece of sheet iron or steel in the throat of the fireplace with a support underneath. Then pour sand through the chimney hole, covering the sheet iron to a depth of about 6 inches. Fitting a board or sheet iron over the front opening of the fireplace, very often proves unsatisfactory. Do not use a goose neck stovepipe in a hole cut through the fire place stop at the bottom, but instead put a chimney hole the same size of the stovepipe in the chimney about 14 inches from the ceiling.
  21. The stove must be supplied with fuel at proper times; it must be properly set up, and the chimney and stovepipe must be large enough, tight enough, and long enough to create sufficient draft.

3. Examine your stove so that you know how the grates, drafts and dampers should work to get best results.


When burning coal, the open side of the duplex grate should be uppermost or next to the fire, and both end linings should be left in the firebox.

When burning wood on the duplex grate, remove both end linings and turn the solid part of the grate bars next to the fire.


When burning coal on the Dock Ash Grate, the wide side of the bottom grate bars should be next to the fire and both end linings left in the firebox.

When burning wood on a Dock Ash Grate, place the wood grate with the ribs uppermost on the Dock Ash Grate bars, and remove both end linings from the firebox.

Wood should always lie flat down on the bottom grate. That is why the end linings should be removed. To remove the end linins, take out bolt that holds the center post in place; this releases the fire back and all the linings are liberated, the fire back and front grate should always be left in place when burning wood.

The wood grate is a flat casting, 6x16 inches with 24 round holes in it.


This slide is located in the door at the left end of the range, and when open, admits air under the fire. To make a wood or coal fire burn faster, open the slide. To check the fire, close it.


This damper is located just below the pipe collar at the back of the flue over the oven. To see how it works, remove the lid in front of the pipe collar and pull out the damper handle just at the right of the oven, and then push the damper handle in.

When you pull out the handle, the damper drops backward and lets all the heat go up the pipe. When you push in on the handle, the damper flies up and closes the opening into the pipe thus forcing the heat to go-around the oven and heat it.

When baking, push in on the direct draft handle and close this draft.


The handle to the ventilating damper is located between the gas oven door and the broiler oven door. The damper itself opens automatically when you open either of these two doors, and allows the burnt gas to escape from the gas ovens into the pipe. YOU MUST KEEP THE VENTILATING DAMPER OPEN WHEN USING EITHER OF THE GAS OVENS. When the handle is pulled out, the damper is open.

The damper can also be opened by hand without opening either of the gas oven doors. It will have to be closed by hand' in all cases.

The ventilating damper may also be used as a check damper when using coal or wood. KEEP THIS DAMPER CLOSED WHEN YOU HAVE A COAL OR WOOD FIRE, unless you wish to deaden the heat.


Keep a record of successful baking temperatures for future guidance.


Use plenty of good kindling with which to start the fire. Open the direct draft damper, also the draft slide in the door below the fire. If the draft is slow, open the door itself until the fire burns briskly.

When the fire is burning brightly and you wish to heat the oven, close the direct draft damper. Regulate the fire with the draft slide that admits air to the fire. If the chimney does not create a good, strong draft, it may be necessary to leave the draft slide door open.

Dry wood burns very freely and some judgment must be used .in allowing the proper amount of air to enter through this slide, however. If opened too wide, the fuel will be burned out quickly and be wasted. If the fire is too brisk, close the direct draft damper and also the slide in the front door draft.

See that the small door under the oven through which the flues are cleaned is tightly closed.


To start a hard coal fire, use charcoal or kindling until you get a bed of coals about two inches deep, then cover With a layer of hard coal about two inches, wait j' until the fuel is nicely glowing, then add another layer of hard coal, and so on until the fire-box is filled even with the top of the fire-back linings. When it has burned down sufficiently to be replenished, shake the ashes out by agitating or revolving the grate with the crank, and add enough more coal to again fill the firebox even with the top of the lining. Empty the ash pan every day.

To keep fire all night with hard coal, turn the grate back and forward with the crank until the grate bars are free of ashes and cinders.

Fill the firebox full almost to the covers; close the draft slide and open the check in the pipe.

To get a quick fire in the morning, drop the direct draft damper backward. Close the check damper and shake the grate bars gently until bright fire shows through the grate bars below.

Open the draft slide door wide. When the unburned coal in the firebox is burning brightly, add more coal in small quantities if necessary, and build your fire up as before mentioned.

It may require several days experimenting to know what to do with each damper to keep fire over night. This is caused by the great difference that exists in chimneys. The chimney that furnishes a strong draft needs more check, the weak chimney not so much. Use stove size or chestnut coal--chestnut gives the best results.

If the fire should need more coal when baking, put in just a small quantity at a time. Do not smother the fire by putting in too much coal, as it will cause the oven to cool off; don't let the fire get too low before adding fresh coal; put in a shoveful or two occasionally.


When soft coal is used and the chimney draft is weak, the flues soon choke up with soot, and strings of soot will hang to the under side of the covers and centers. When this condition exists, the draft must be improved.

To get the best results, clean the flues of the stove about once a week-sometimes oftener-depending altogether upon the draft of the chimney and the accumulation of soot. Never allow soft coal to be above the top of the fire back. If you do, you are wasting fuel and choking the combustion.

On account of the difference in the heating power of different kinds of soft coal, better results will be obtained sometimes by not filling the firebox quite so full, and it may be an inch or two below the top of the three-piece fire-back.

If the fire should need more coal when baking, put in just a small amount at a time; then you do not smother the fire and cause the oven to cool off.

Regulate the draft so as to get the proper combustion -too much draft causes a waste of fuel and the oven to become too hot for baking.

DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE SMOKE caused by the first fire. This smoke and the accompanying odor are simply caused by the burning of the stove blacking and cement in the joints; they will disappear in a short time.


DON'T PUT ANYTHING INTO THE OVEN TO BAKE UNTIL THE OVEN BOTTOM IS THOROUGHLY HOT, testing it by placing the hand near the oven bottom. If the oven bottom heats slowly, open the door in which the draft slide is located. Leave it open until the oven bottom is plenty hot enough, then put in the baking and close the draft slide door. Keep the heat moving around the oven by opening or closing the slide in the door as is found necessary.

The oven of a new range usually heats very quickly at the top, and if you don't get the bottom thoroughly heated, the food will bake too fast on top and perhaps burn before it is done on the bottom. REMEMBERHEAT THE BOTTOM OF THE OVEN THOROUGHLY BEFORE YOU PUT IN YOUR BAKING. Otherwise the dough will simply dry out and will not bake at all.


See that all gas burners are level on the gas burner hangers when you set up the range. On account of varying gas pressure in' different localities, the top gas burners are adjustable so that they can be raised or lowered to meet the requirements of gas companies in different places.

The supply pipe leading from the meter to the range should not be less than three quarters of an inch inside diameter.

Have a gas cock or valve connected to the supply pipe where it is connected to the pipe furnished with the range, so when entirely through using the gas range the supply of gas can be cut off. This is a safeguard against leakage.


The adjustment of gas and air supply must be regulated by the once in gas cock, and air mixer at end of burner. An attempt to cut down gas in the supply pipe will produce imperfect combustion.

After opening any valve let the burner fill with gas before applying a light. This prevents popping back.

If burner blows only slightly at first it will cease after the burner gets hot. If there is too much blowing, shut off air by partly closing the mixer slide, or cut down the gas pressure by screwing the adjusting cap to the left, or do both slightly.

To increase the size of flame, turn the once to the right and if this causes the burner to blow too much, open the mixer slide.

A white or red flame is wasteful and causes discoloration of cooking vessels. To avoid this, open air mixer and if necessary decrease flow of gas by turning orifice to the left.

Turn gas to point where flame covers bottom of utensil only. Gas is wasted when flames flares around the side of the kettle. A top burner need never be lighted till the kettle is ready. Keep the flame blue.

Your gas bill grows in dollars and cents in proportion to your own carelessness and indifference.

Light the cooking burners as you would a gas jet. If the gas should catch fire inside the tube, immediately turn off the gas supply for a moment and then light as' usual. This "firing" back does not occur very often and no danger is accompanied by it. It may be caused by the mixture of air and gas not being in right proportion.


Open the gas cock marked oven and count five deliberately, then hold lighted match over the small hole in front corner of oven bottom.

When baking do not place the pans on the bottom. Put everything to be baked or roasted on the oven racks and place the racks in the guides wherever necessary to accommodate the pan, and as your judgment dictates.
Always leave the ventilating damper open when baking with gas.

When using broiler it should be heated a few minutes before being used.

When broiling meat, place the meat close to the flame for a few minutes until the surface is thoroughly seared, then turn it over and sear the other side; this closes the pores in the meat so that the juices are retained in it.

Be careful not to have the flame too high or it will cook too quickly and the grease may catch fire. Be sure to wash and' dry the broiling pan and rack thoroughly after using, so as to prevent rusting.

On a Peerless Combination range equipped to burn NATURAL gas, there is a damper handle just over the coal oven door. When cooking on top of the gas. section of your stove, pull this damper handle out so that the gas fumes may escape up the flue.


In cleaning the bottom flues, always scrape the soot off the under side of the oven bottom by sliding the scraper along hugging the top of the flue until it reaches the back, then drop it squarely down and pull it towards the opening, hugging the bottom of the flue closely. Do not slide the scraper along the bottom of the flue when you insert it; by so doing you will push the ashes and soot to the back of the flue and bank them up there so no draft can get through the opening where the smoke turns to go up the chimney. If the draft is so strong that it pulls the ashes and soot back into the flue, close the draft slide and open the direct draft damper and remove the lid in front of the pipe collar.

To clean the vertical flue at the right end of the oven, remove the gas top burners and drip pan and burner box, and you will see a cover over the flue. Remove this and insert the scraper, pushing the soot down and taking it out from underneath the oven.

To remove the linings of the baking over, take hold of the side linings or guides that hold the oven rack at the back and lift them up, and bring them toward the center of the oven. You will notice a flange on' the front and on the bottom of this lining or oven rack guide, and in replacing it, place the flange inside of the front frame and then push down so that the other flange comes on the outside of the oven bottom. After removing the two side linings, take out the back lining and the oven bottom is easily taken out by lifting at the back and all can be cleaned with a sponge or cloth, and the oven burner can be inspected or removed if necessary to clean, or to see if the burner holes are all free from dirt.

To clean the cooking burners put them in boiling water and washing soda or washing powder. When thoroughly boiled and cleaned, dry them over the flame of one of the other burners so that they will not rust. If you don’t take care of this, you will find there will be some accumulation of red rust spots. See that all the holes in burners are open and free. They must not be allowed to become stopped - clean with a small wire or hatpin.